The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, widely regarded as the most important annual ceremony in the world of fine watchmaking, once again showcases the full spectrum of creativity, craftsmanship and mechanical innovation. The 2025 edition highlights the harmony between artistic expression and technical mastery, bringing together independent ateliers and historical maisons in a single, prestigious arena. The models presented on the global exhibition tour, including the Istanbul stop, underline how participation alone grants considerable recognition. This year’s winners confirm that contemporary watchmaking goes far beyond measuring time, embracing a cultural and mechanical legacy shaped by centuries of human ingenuity.
Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025
Marking Breguet’s 250th anniversary, the Classique Souscription 2025 receives the most prestigious award of the year. Inspired by Breguet’s historic subscription watches, the model translates the original pocket-watch concept into an elegant wristwatch with a single hand placed on a pristine white enamel dial. The specially engineered Breguet Gold alloy ensures lasting color stability and durability. The hand-wound calibre VS00 beats at 3 Hz and provides an impressive 96-hour power reserve. Its restrained aesthetics combined with traditional mechanical purity capture the very essence of classical horology, making the model a natural choice for the Aiguille d’Or.
Tourbillon Category
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Bvlgari continues to redefine the limits of ultra-thin watchmaking with the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, measuring only 1.85 mm in total thickness. The titanium case and tungsten-carbide mainplate form the structural backbone of this groundbreaking architecture. The skeletonised BVF 900 calibre visually reveals the entirety of its mechanical landscape while achieving Bvlgari’s tenth world record in the realm of ultra-thin horology. It stands as both an aesthetic statement and a mechanical achievement.
Iconic Category
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar demonstrates one of the most harmonious calendar layouts in modern watchmaking. The Grande Tapisserie dial hosts day, date, month and year indications arranged with remarkable equilibrium. The new self-winding calibre 7138 allows all calendar settings to be adjusted through a single crown, offering contemporary practicality within a timeless design. Versions in sand gold and classic gold enhance the visual depth of the legendary case profile.
Chronograph Category
Angelus Chronographe Télémètre Yellow Gold
Angelus pays homage to its heritage with this refined monopusher chronograph crafted in 37 mm yellow gold. The telemeter scale recalls historical military chronographs and reinforces the vintage-inspired aesthetic. Limited to 15 pieces, the model combines compact dimensions, a slim profile and nostalgic character, making it a highly desirable piece among discerning collectors.
Ladies’ Category
Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
The Oursin Fire Opal transforms Gérald Genta’s distinctive artistic language into a jewel-like creation adorned with 137 fire opal stones. The warm orange carnelian dial complements the sculptural case geometry. Powered by an automatic movement based on the Zenith Elite architecture, the piece merges ornamental craftsmanship with mechanical sophistication.
Men’s Category
Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 Double Wheel Natural Escapement
Urban Jürgensen presents a masterclass in traditional horology through a manually crafted silver dial decorated with hand-executed guilloché patterns. Beneath the dial lies the hand-wound UJ-2 calibre, featuring a double-wheel natural escapement inspired by Breguet’s original concept. Enhanced energy efficiency, reduced friction and a slow-beating 18,000 vph balance express a philosophy that values mechanical purity over ostentation.
Ladies’ Complication Category
Chopard Imperiale Four Seasons
Chopard combines mechanical ingenuity with poetic beauty in the Imperiale Four Seasons. A delicate white-gold lace motif shaped as a lotus flower decorates the upper dial, while a rotating disk beneath it completes a full cycle every 365 days, symbolically representing the passing of the seasons. The automatic calibre L.U.C 96.31-L offers approximately 65 hours of power reserve. Limited to 25 pieces, the watch is both a mechanical instrument and an artistic allegory.
Artistic Crafts Category
Voutilainen 28 GML SOUYOU
Crafted as a unique piece, the 28 GML SOUYOU showcases Japanese Urushi lacquer artistry in vivid, layered hues. Encased in platinum and powered by a hand-wound Voutilainen movement, the watch embodies the harmony between artisanal surface art and high-end mechanical finishing. Each detail reflects Kari Voutilainen’s dedication to uncompromising craftsmanship.
Jewellery Category
Dior La D de Dior Buisson Couture
Encircled with 1,088 gemstones and requiring nearly 480 hours of hand-setting, this creation represents Dior’s boldest expression of haute joaillerie watchmaking. Diamonds, pink sapphires and tsavorite stones form a floral composition that transforms the piece into a miniature work of couture art. The quartz movement intentionally prioritises design and craftsmanship as the central narrative.
Time Only Category
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold
Daniel Roth’s iconic double-ellipse case returns in an exceptionally thin interpretation constructed in rose gold. The two-tone guilloché dial reflects refined dress-watch aesthetics, while the DR002 calibre—shaped specifically to fit the case contour—reveals immaculate hand-finishing through the transparent caseback. The result is a pure, elegant time-only watch for collectors who appreciate understated sophistication.
Men’s Complication Category
Bovet Récital 30
Bovet rethinks the world-timer complication through its innovative roller system, which automatically adjusts for seasonal time-change variations. The 24-city module repositions itself according to the selected period of the year, while a dedicated hand indicates offset zones such as New Delhi’s thirty-minute difference. The Récital 30 delivers a contemporary approach to global timekeeping.
Mechanical Exception Category
Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante
The Nano Foudroyante introduces a revolutionary nanomechanical architecture operating on extraordinarily low levels of energy. By combining a flying tourbillon, a fly-back chronograph and cutting-edge energy-management engineering, Greubel Forsey presents one of the most technically ambitious watches of the year. Limited to 22 pieces, the model represents a landmark in modern haute horlogerie.
Sport Category
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
Constructed in titanium hardened with ceramic treatment, the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF offers both resilience and lightness. The high-frequency automatic calibre operating at 8 Hz delivers enhanced precision, reaffirming Chopard’s technical direction within the sports-luxury segment. Limited to 250 pieces, it stands out as a modern sports watch with genuine mechanical pedigree.
