Geneva Watch Days 2025 is unfolding with unmatched energy, and the world of horology is alive with anticipation. Over the course of these dynamic days, 66 brands are revealing their newest creations, ranging from intricate complications to elegant minimalism. Each timepiece embodies the philosophy, craftsmanship, and technical prowess that define modern luxury watchmaking, and the festival is providing enthusiasts and collectors with an immersive look at the latest innovations.
Beda’a is capturing attention with its Angles Mecaline, a transformation of the original quartz model into a mechanical manual-winding watch featuring the ETA 7001 caliber. The piece retains its octagonal architecture and introduces a small seconds display with sector-style finishing in semi-matte sunray or circular patterns. The 37mm case houses two dial options, black and taupe-grey, paired with a refined leather strap. The watch’s minimalism, now paired with the beating rhythm of a mechanical heart, demonstrates how traditional aesthetics can merge seamlessly with contemporary mechanics.
Bvlgari is pushing boundaries with several standout releases. The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan × Bvlgari merges visual art with horological innovation, limited to 150 pieces. The watch features a transparent caseback that showcases the intricate movement and bears Lee Ufan’s handwritten signature. Meanwhile, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble presents a deep blue dial crafted from Italian marble, paired with a flying tourbillon that demonstrates exceptional mechanical mastery. Additionally, the Bvlgari Bronzo collection introduces two new references, combining bronze cases with black rubber accents for a modern sports-luxe aesthetic. The Bronzo GMT at 40mm and the Bronzo Chronograph at 41mm highlight the brand’s expertise in marrying robust materials with refined finishing.
De Bethune continues to mesmerize with the DB25xs Starry Varius and the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon. The Starry Varius offers a fresh interpretation of the Milky Way motif, embracing shades beyond the signature blue and black to include subtle red and purple tones. This edition resonates with collectors familiar with the 2022 limited piece for the Emirates Watch Club while introducing a new, captivating palette. The DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon, in a precise 38.7mm case, demonstrates the brand’s signature heat-treated titanium finishing, presenting a mechanical symphony visible through the sapphire crystal.
Dennison’s ALD Dual Time reimagines natural stone in horology. By pairing contrasting stones such as tiger’s eye with black marble or green bloodstone with lapis lazuli, each dial communicates two distinct time zones in a harmonious composition. Single-stone variants, including malachite, lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye, and aventurine, incorporate a sunray-finished subdial at 3 o’clock, balancing aesthetic elegance with functional clarity.
Favre Leuba celebrates its tourbillon legacy with the Chief Skeleton, the brand’s first skeletonized timepiece. Offered in two 40mm executions—one with a gold-finished caliber in a brushed steel case and another with an anthracite-finished caliber in a black DLC case—the watch features the FLS01 self-winding caliber developed exclusively for the brand. Every component, from bridges to gears, is meticulously designed to showcase the mechanics while maintaining legibility and elegance.
Ferdinand Berthoud commemorates its 10th anniversary with the Naissance d’une Montre 3. This exceptional piece incorporates a chain-and-fusée system, Breguet stopwork, and a bimetallic compensation balance wheel. Constructed from 747 components, including 477 for the delicate chain alone, the movement demands nearly 11,000 hours of skilled craftsmanship. Limited to 11 pieces worldwide, the Naissance d’une Montre 3 represents the pinnacle of artisanal watchmaking.
Frederique Constant introduces new Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture models, combining heritage design with contemporary reliability. Two stainless steel references with blue or silvered dials complement a limited 18K yellow gold edition featuring an onyx-black dial. Each 40mm timepiece houses the upgraded FC-776 manufacture caliber with a 72-hour power reserve, intuitive push-button calendar adjustments, and an accessible entry point to high-end perpetual calendar complications. Frederique Constant also expands the Classics Premiere line with 38.5mm models in salmon and Bermuda gray, paired for the first time with five-link steel bracelets, offering daily wearability while evoking vintage charm.
Gerald Charles revives one of Gérald Genta’s final designs with the Masterlink Gem-Set. The watch features an asymmetrical case and bracelet, harmonizing curved and flat links. Gem-setting options include blue sapphire, ruby, and tsavorite, blending jewelry craftsmanship with horological sophistication.
H. Moser & Cie introduces the Pioneer Flying Hours in red gold and steel with white fumé dials, featuring wandering minutes and instantaneous jumping hours powered by the HMC 240 automatic caliber. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon joins with a smoked salmon dial finished in vertical griffe, demonstrating the brand’s ongoing mastery of dial finishing and complication design.
The revived gérald genta Minute Repeater showcases a rounded octagonal case measuring 40mm across and 9.6mm in height. The manual winding Calibre GG-002 provides sonorous time indication while maximizing air resonance through reduced case wall thickness and sapphire crystal height.
Massena Lab collaborates with Vianney Halter to release Old Soul, a steampunk-inspired piece powered by a vintage Minerva 17’22 caliber. Featuring a transparent minute disc for a “mystery” dial effect, this marks the first modern adaptation of a vintage Minerva movement in such a creative manner.
MB&F celebrates its 20th anniversary with the LM101 EVO, offering 60-hour power reserve, darkened finishing, and titanium cases with salmon or peacock green CVD dials. M.A.D.Editions collaborates with Yinka Ilori on M.A.D.1S Grow Your Dreams, a trio of vibrant, 400-piece limited watches emphasizing playful, colorful design from bezel to strap.
Micromilspec debuts the Dualtimer pilot’s watch featuring the GMT complication and Sellita SW330-2 caliber, with Super-LumiNova X1 in two colors to differentiate time zones in low-light. The Milgraph White Dial Edition returns with a grainy matte dial and signature destro layout.
Oris introduces the Big Crown Calibre 113, a self-winding caliber with unconventional green and pink accents, alongside the Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter ‘Mission Control’, featuring a modified luminous dial and carbon fiber/polymer case powered by the updated Caliber 793.
TAG Heuer presents the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring, both with full carbon cases and monochrome engraved dials. The Carrera Astronomer highlights TAG Heuer’s historical lunar timekeeping, merging tradition with innovation.
Trilobe launches the Trente-Deux collection, with the in-house X-Nihilo caliber, open island design exposing the balance wheel, raw graining, black polishing, 42-hour power reserve, shock-resilient mechanisms, and a tungsten oscillating weight enhancing visual depth.
Ulysse Nardin introduces the Freak X Crystalium, utilizing ruthenium crystallization for a frosted glass effect within a black DLC titanium case accented in rose gold PVD.
Zenith collaborates with USM Modular Furniture on the DEFY Chronograph USM, combining architectural aesthetics in a 37.3mm steel case with ladder bracelet and El Primero 400 caliber, limited to 60 pieces in four signature colors.
Geneva Watch Days 2025 demonstrates the spectrum of contemporary watchmaking: from high complications and artistic collaborations to innovative materials, finishing techniques, and daring design. Collectors, enthusiasts, and industry professionals witness an unfolding story where craftsmanship meets creativity, and tradition harmonizes with the avant-garde. Each brand continues to push the boundaries of horology, offering pieces that are as technically impressive as they are visually compelling, reaffirming Geneva as the beating heart of luxury watch innovation.
