The world of luxury watchmaking is continually seeking a balance between respecting its storied past and embracing the future of horological technology. For five decades, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato has been personifying this delicate equilibrium, and now, the new Laureato Fifty is firmly cementing its place as an enduring symbol of integrated luxury sports watch design. This celebratory edition is not simply marking an anniversary; it is actively setting a new benchmark for technical finesse and aesthetic refinement within the collection.
Since its inception in 1975, the Laureato has been standing shoulder-to-shoulder with the most recognizable names in its segment. The design is constantly evolving, yet the core characteristics are unmistakably remaining the same: the signature octagonal bezel seated upon a circular ring, and the beautifully integrated bracelet that is seamlessly flowing from the case. Watch enthusiasts are witnessing how this latest iteration is delicately reworking these iconic forms. The case diameter is now measuring a contemporary 39mm, and the height is impressively holding steady at just 9.8mm, making it one of the most elegantly proportioned watches in its category. The watchmakers are carefully crafting the case from a luxurious blend of steel and 3N yellow solid gold, ensuring a sophisticated contrast that is immediately catching the eye.
Delving into the aesthetics, the dial is presenting a deep sunray grey finish that is being adorned with the celebrated *Clous de Paris* pattern. This intricate texture is immediately adding a profound depth and dynamism, causing the dial to dramatically shift its appearance as the light is interacting with its tiny, pyramidal surfaces. The hour markers, which are functionally replacing the traditional Arabic numerals, are being plated in matching 3N gold, ensuring optimal legibility while simultaneously continuing the luxurious theme. The design team is skillfully positioning a double index at 12 o’clock, creating a focal point and a subtle nod to the brand’s heritage, as the GP logo is traditionally occupying this spot. The central second hand is sweeping across the dial, a visual testament to the precise movement that is powering the timepiece. Every hand on the dial is being treated with luminescent material, guaranteeing that time reading is remaining effortless even in low-light conditions.
The integration of the bracelet is another key area where the Laureato Fifty is showcasing considerable evolution. The watch’s integrated bracelet is being subtly redesigned with links that are fractionally shorter, providing a more fluid and ergonomic fit on the wrist. Furthermore, the middle links are now exhibiting a slightly more domed profile, enhancing the sculptural quality of the overall design. Perhaps the most functional upgrade is the new triple-folding clasp, which is thoughtfully incorporating a fine adjustment system. This system is allowing the wearer to precisely adjust the fit by up to 4mm, a crucial feature that is greatly contributing to day-long comfort and wearability. The octagonal pushers on the clasp are ingeniously echoing the form of the famous bezel, demonstrating how every component is being considered within the greater design scheme.
Turning our attention to the engine, the true technical prowess of the Girard-Perregaux manufacture is being revealed through the new in-house automatic calibre GP4800. This movement is a modern masterclass in mechanical architecture. It is beating at a high frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), which is actively contributing to its stable and accurate timekeeping performance. The power reserve is spanning 55 hours, a comfortable duration that is ensuring the watch continues to run even after being set down for an extended period.
The calibre GP4800 is a testament to cutting-edge material science, notably incorporating a silicon escapement. The use of silicon for this vital component is actively reducing friction, eliminating the need for lubrication at the points of contact, and significantly increasing the movement’s resistance to magnetic fields. This innovation is guaranteeing the long-term reliability and precision that serious collectors are demanding. The architecture is also featuring a variable inertia balance wheel, which is offering a more stable and resilient method for fine-tuning the movement's rate compared to traditional systems. The entire movement is meticulously finished; the rhodium-plated bridges are being decorated with straight *Côtes de Genève* stripes, and the edges are being precisely diamond-bevelled. Even the screw heads are receiving a mirror-polish finish, signifying the artisans' commitment to superlative craftsmanship in every single component. The openworked oscillating weight, which is efficiently winding the barrel and feeding the power reserve, is finished in solid gold and is proudly exhibiting arrow-shaped motifs that pay homage to the brand’s legendary tourbillon bridges.
The caseback, fitted with a sapphire crystal, is inviting observers to appreciate this mechanical symphony. Here, one is visually confirming the high count of 19 synthetic ruby jewels that are diligently reducing friction on the critical pivots of the wheel train. The central winding barrel is efficiently storing the 55-hour energy supply, maintaining a constant supply of power to the hairspring and the escapement. Furthermore, the water resistance has been significantly improved to 150 meters, a robust capability that is emphasizing the Laureato’s identity as a true luxury sports watch. This robust construction is relying on the precise engineering of the case middle and the integration of the elegantly fluted bezel, which is securing the anti-reflective sapphire crystal in place. The bezel insert, which is functionally integrated into the overall bezel structure, is a hallmark of this genre, and here it is being executed with an unyielding standard of quality. The Laureato Fifty is, therefore, actively participating in the evolution of watchmaking, ensuring that the legacy of Girard-Perregaux is continuously moving forward with mechanical and design excellence.
