Considered as one of the milestones in the history of traditional watchmaking, Breguet is the guest of our Hands On corner with a model that combines the traditional luxury watchmaking with contemporary details; Breguet Tradition Fusée Tourbillon 7047 Ref. 7047PT/11/9ZU model from the Tradition Collection.
Those familiar with the Breguet brand know very well why I chose the term "milestone" at the beginning of my article. The brand, founded by the master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet who has a great share in the traditional watchmaking’s present position, is truly a milestone with dozens of concepts and patents granted to the watchmaking industry today. The model I choose for you from this special brand is the Breguet Tradition Fusée Tourbillon 7047 Ref. 7047PT/11/9ZU which puts the details of traditional luxury watchmaking and Breguet’s DNA under the same roof with modern touches.
Breguet is a brand based on its roots both in terms of design and technology. It is possible to see this in almost every model, from the small details that make up the case to the movements that resemble miniature works of art. It is almost the same with the Breguet Tradition Fusée Tourbillon 7047 Ref. 7047PT/11/9ZU model. Well, I might say exactly the same but, there are nuances that keep me from making this determination. In fact, those nuances are the reason for this very review.
The model is offered in a beautiful case measuring 41mm in diameter and 15.95mm in height. The case is equipped with scratch resistant sapphire crystals on both sides and is water resistant to 30 meters / 3 bars in accordance with its style. The design of the case, which is made up entirely of polished surfaces, features signature Breguet details like the classic coin-edge Breguet style bezel and unique lugs that look more like the legs of an antique table.
The case of the model I have here is made of Grade 950 Platinum. And one of the nuances I mentioned above is this Platinum preference. If I was looking for a Fusée Tourbillon featured model from a brand like Breguet, would I prefer Platinum, which looks like white gold or even stainless steel at the first glance even to the trained eyes? I do not think so... Let’s leave the “tastes differ” thing aside, I think the right material here should be 18K pink gold . And yes, this version is also available in the collection.
Let’s get to the dial. First of all, if we consider that the model is designed in a partially skeleton concept, it is obvious that we will not be talking about a conventional dial. Breguet, however, goes in line with the "partial" part with a sub-dial that allows the user to read the time effortlessly.
The dial, which is located on the lower left side of the case in off-centered style, features a beautiful Guilloche background below the obviously Breguet style blue hands. The hour and minutes scale are designed delicately and the use of Roman numeral hour markers match with the traditional identity of the model. But the rest of the scenery, does not…
I don’t know if it’s about the harmony with the Platinum or getting the popular industrial look, but all the components visible from the front side is extremely simple. The parts, that are decorated with either micro sand-blasting or vertical stripes instead of the glamorous Cotes de Genève pattern, reminds me of the Hublot’s style. In this case, which I see as another nuance, this Breguet is again outside of my preferences and expectations.
There is and is not lot to say for the movement at the same time. Why? I am looking at a movement with Fusée Tourbillon feature that is manufactured by a brand like Breguet. The manual winding Caliber 569 consists of 562 pieces, 43 of which are jewels. I cannot find anything negative to say about the engineering of the movement that can provide a 50-hour power reserve when fully wound. And I don’t think anyone can find one. However, when I look the rear side of the watch is again way out of my expectations. Parts designed with a grainy surface form are very dull and very dark for a top-end example of traditional watchmaking. Industrial design? Yes, why not? A Breguet caliber with Fusée Tourbillon dressed to look industrially designed? Oh, No.
Thankfully, there are no more surprises in the rest of the details. The model comes on a hand-sewn top quality black alligator strap. The strap is secured with the stylish Breguet signed folding clasp made of Platinum.
It would be non-sense to call the Breguet Tradition Fusée Tourbillon 7047 Ref. 7047PT/11/9ZU model good or bad. However, the visual composition of the model that begins with the preference of Platinum pushes the model out of my preferences. Of course, this is a matter of personal taste, but I would recommend anyone interested in this model (including those who desire this very configuration) to also see the 18K pink gold version in person.
We would like to thank the Tourbillon Boutique (Emaar Square Mall) family for their usual support and utmost hospitality.