When it comes to watches, Bulgari is not the first brand recalls in the minds of the most watch enthusiasts. Just like Cartier, many stunning time pieces falls at the back of the other brands’ due to the common perception heavily focused on the jewellery and accessories side. We have mentioned the bold steps Cartier took to change this issue before, especially La Maison’s solid approach for developing fully in-house movements.
Bulgari moves in the same path with it’s watches division as well. Getting impressively strong after the acquisition of Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, the famous brand keeps designing breath taking time pieces one after another making it’s place in the luxury watch world more solid than ever.
The Octo product line got it’s share of this improvement period mostly. As also mentioned in our pages before, Octo series is highly praised by the watch aficionados with it’s unique rectangular case and pure elegance since the day it’s been launched.
Now we are here with a couple of stunning time pieces from the Octo Series.
One of the models we have here bears extreme importance not only for Bulgari but for the entire watch industry - Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon.
The reason for this utmost importance is the movement of the watch which has the world record for being the thinnest tourbillon caliber ever manufactured. The Caliber Ref. BVL 268 is a true piece of art, expressing the current strength and capability of the brand’s know-how for watches.
Let’s have a close look at this mile stone movement together;
In order to achieve such a horological masterpiece, Bulgari’s watchmakers had to come up with a number of extreme technical solutions to reduce the overall thickness of the movement. The one-minute flying tourbillon cage, the thickest part of the entire construction, set the main design of the movement right after it was embedded into the plate. The ultra-slim movement has two bridges, one for the minute wheel and one for the gear train of the tourbillon cage, and uses ball bearings instead of jewels for many of the moving parts.
The base movement features seven ball bearings and the tourbillon cage pivots on a peripherally driven ball-bearing mechanism. The timing is adjusted directly on the balance wheel, which eliminates the need for a traditional regulator assembly and enabled the movement to be even thinner. Three ball bearings also serve to guide and keep in position the barrel, which enabled the length of the spring to be doubled, resulting in an impressive power reserve of 52 hours.
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon caliber features 249 individual parts and sports a number of traditional finishing techniques: plate and bridges are bevelled and decorated with Côtes de Genève, gears are bevelled and circular satin-brushed, screw heads and slots have bevelled edges and polished ends.
Our second model from the Octo Series is the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo with the extra thin movement.
This time piece beats with another remarkably thin caliber with a total height of 2.23mm – Calibre Ref. BVL 128. Manual winding caliber features a small second and a power reserve indicator ( located at the back side ). Offering 65h of power reserve when fully wound, the movement sports hand finished parts with Cotes De Geneve style decoration.
Both time pieces sport black dials. While the tourbillon version employs a display window for the tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock position, the extra thin version features a small second sub dial at 7 o’clock location.
Undoubtedly, watching the tourbillon escapement’s full turn in a one minute interval is the most exciting feature of the watch.
The cases are build in 18K pink gold with a diameter of 40mm. Being manufactured after several high-tech processes, the cases sport utmost finishing quality. Both mirror polished and satin brushed surfaces are flawless.
Thanks to the transparent case backs, it’s possible to view the stunning movements.
The setting crown is another common side of both models. Cylindrical shaped crowns have ceramic stones placed at the top end.
Integrated designed alligator straps are of highest quality and they are offered in black color matching perfectly with the dials. Both versions are accompanied with 18K pink gold buckles and feel quite comfortable on the wrist.
It is almost impossible to talk about a down side regarding those stunning time pieces. With their elegant dials, 40mm sized and flawlessly finished unique cases and fascinating movements, both two watches are perfect.
All you have to do is to decide whether you are going to go with the breath taking tourbillon version or be happy with the extra thin caliber version which bears most of the same designs with a fraction of tourbillon’s price tag.