Glashütte Original, one of Germany’s most celebrated luxury watchmakers, is under the spotlight with the PanoMaticLunar (Ref. 1-90-02-46-32-35) model, which combines the trademark Big Date feature with a tastefully designed moon phase indicator.
Although the traditional watchmaking and luxury watch sector have been dominated by Swiss brands since their emergence, the heavy hitter brands from Germany and Far East continues to offer superior timepieces both in terms of engineering and design. Glashütte Original is one of the first names that comes to mind when the list is reduced to German brands. The Saxon brand, which combines precise German engineering with simple but useful designs based on functionality, adorns the dreams of many watch enthusiasts especially its loyal fans.
Glashütte Original, which takes its place among the cult names of the luxury watchmaking industry with its unique dial designs, superb craftsmanship and a big double-disc date display that has become a symbol of the brand, is the guest of our Hands On corner with the PanoMaticLunar (Ref. 1-90-02-46-32-35) from the Pano Collection that was renovated in 2015.
The model comes in a stainless steel case measuring 40mm in diameter and 12.70mm in height. Though it does not draw much attention on black and white, the case is slightly on the thicker side. It is not a surprise for the watch aficionados who are familiar with the Glashütte Original timepieces. However, it is better to highlight this fact for the ones who are shopping for a dress watch. The case, which features satin brushed and mirror polished parts, offers quite a wrist presence with its thick lugs and large winding crown with double G logo. The case is equipped with scratch resistant sapphire crystals on both sides and is water resistant to 50 meters / 5 bars.
As it applies to almost all Glashütte Original models, one of the most interesting parts of the model is its dial. The dark blue sun-beam pattern dial offers an extra ordinary, asymmetrical lay-out. The big double-disc date window from the signature details of the brand is located between 4 and 5 o’clock. If you are not a big fan of big date displays like me but still comfortable with this model, you may rest assured as the date disc is finished in matching dark blue tone and blends into the dial nicely. Another good example of the non-standard design elements is the moon phase indicator, which deserves to have this definition in terms of both visual appearance and location. The half-circle shaped moon phase indicator is present at 2 o’clock. Effortlessly noticed with its contrasting color scheme, the moon phase disk rests in an interestingly designed framed featuring a pair of miniature curves. The craftsmanship on the disk proves that minimalism is not all about lacking details.
Time is displayed via a large sub-dial located towards the left side of the dial. The small seconds sub-dial is partly integrated with the time display sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The German texts that refer the features of the model in printed on the outer side of the dial without compromising the dial’s integrity (if it exists on an asymmetric dial). Readability is at an optimal level thanks to the contrast- indexes on the dark blue background and the hands applied with Super LumiNOVA phosphorus material.
The model beats with the brand’s manufacture movement Caliber Ref. 90-02. Self-winding (with a skeleton style oscillating rotor made of 21K solid gold) beats at a frequency of 4Hz (28.800vph) and offers a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound. The movement is exquisitely finished with stripe finish screw balance duplex swan-neck fine adjustment, beveled edges, polished steel parts, hand engraved partially with perlage balance bridge and is enjoyed through the sapphire crystal display case back.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (Ref. 1-90-02-46-32-35) comes with a hand-sewn black alligator strap. The strap is secured by a double G logo folding clasp made of satin brushed stainless steel. In the meantime, it’s worth mentioning a little bit about the clasp; the pin of the clasp corresponding to the hole on the strap is fixed with a flat-head screw. Besides being extra safe, this is not practical in the adjustment part as you may have guessed. Unless you are traveling with a watchmaker’s screwdriver set, of course... Fortunately, German engineers should have thought the same thing as they offer a standard pin buckle option with the leather strap in addition to the stainless steel bracelet.
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar (Ref. 1-90-02-46-32-35), in theory, is a model that can be classified in the dress watch category. However, it is difficult to say the same in real life as we are talking about a watch with a diameter of 40mm, a total height of 12.7mm and a dial laid-out asymmetrically. On the other hand, it is definitely a must for your shopping list if you are in search of a modern moon phase watch but not satisfied with dress watches that are generically designed despite being manufactured by different brands.
We would like to thank the Tourbillon Boutique (Emaar Square AVM) family once again for their utmost support and warm hospitality.