Vacheron Constantin, a heavy hitter of the industry, became a guest in our Hands On corner with the Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platinum model of the Patrimony series which became an icon in the eyes of watch enthusiasts with its classic lines.
The model, which was first introduced in the SIHH 2016 fair, stands out with the ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar mechanism and the its case made of Platinum which have been quite popular last year.
The model is offered in a Grade 950 Platinum case with 41mm diameter and 8.9mm height. Though it sounds a bit out of the classic Dress Watch proportions by the diameter, the model does not compromise the elegance factor thanks to its smooth lines and relatively thin structure.
The choice of Platinum instead of 18K yellow or pink gold partially prevents the watch from being an eye-catcher at first glance. Let’s leave it the eye-catcher part aside; my personal choice would not be this version as I admire 18K gold especially when it’s yellow, but I am sure there would be users and collectors which would surely prefer this model just because of this relatively “hidden” look.
The case sports scratch resistant sapphire crystals with anti-glare coating on both sides. The 30M waterproof rating may seem weak in today’s standards, but I do not think anyone would ever try to make a watch wet that is so elegant and precious.
The model’s dial is designed with a sandblasted surface. There are four sub-dials on the dial which is prepared in a gray tone that is very compatible with the Platinum case. The moon phases at 6 o’clock along with a perpetual calendar displaying the day of the week in a counter at 9 o’clock, the date in a counter at 3 o’clock, the month and leap year in 48-month counters at 12 o’clock.
The dial deserves praise with its practical lay-out and clear readability despites its functions including the Perpetual Calendar designed to stay accurate without any corrections until March 1, 2100.
The dial is accompanied by indexes and hands manufactured from 18K white gold. The hands of the calendar function are finished in blue which make them match with the overall design and affect the readability of the dial positively.
All the elements that bring the dial together have been perfectly designed and flawlessly combined, but I think the biggest praise here is taken by the moon phase. The moon phase disc is made of 18K white gold and has been galvanized to have the blue details on it. It is possible to appreciate the brand’s importance to details and workmanship by simply looking at the moon phase indicator.
The model is powered by the Caliber Ref. 1120 QP. Self-winding movement beats at a relatively non-standard 2.75Hz (or 19500vph) and offers 40 hours of power reserve when fully wound. As with the all movements in Vacheron Constantin timepieces, it bears the Hallmark of Geneva certification.
Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar Collection Excellence Platine is limited to 100 pieces only and comes on a blue alligator strap. The strap is secured with a folding clasp made of Grade 950 Platinum as with the case.
The model is offered in a special presentation box including a watch winder and a corrector pen to set the calendar functions.