Baselworld, considered one of the two most important exhibitions of the watchmaking industry, hosted many new models this year as always. Although the concepts that marked the exhibition were almost Re-Issue and Heritage only, there were also brands that showed up with really "new" models. Among these brands, Breguet was imprinted in our memories with the marvelous Marine Équation Marchante 5887 model.
The brand, which is one of the indispensable names of traditional watchmaking, has added a new model to its iconic Marine Collection this year. Designed differently from the Re-Issue and Heritage concepts, the new model houses many features, especially the "Equation of Time" complication that clearly marks the brand’s current position.
The new model is offered in an 18K pink gold case measuring 43.9mm in diameter. Similar to the other models in the collection in terms of design features, the case bears a reasonable size considering the model’s features and sporty character.
The case sports AR coated sapphire crystals on both sides along the series’ typical details like centered lug structure with mirror polished and satin brushed surfaces, sand-blasted winding crown with polished “B” on top and fluted sides. Let me remind you, this timepiece is water resistant to 100 meters allowing you to enjoy your Grand Complication watch under water.
Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 18K Rose Gold comes in a very complex dial. Designed with two different engine-turned surface finishes, the dial is accompanied with pink gold accents. The model displays the Equation of Time function through an extra set of hour and minute hands separated from the regular ones with the golden sun symbol on the tips. There are several ways to display the Equation of Time function and the most popular one is showing the difference through an extra hand over a sub-dial or a scale that is capable of reading the -16 / + 14 minutes difference.
This system, which works perfectly in principle, has a slight disadvantage that the user has to take advantage of the basic mathematics in order to be able to calculate the difference between solar time and real time. In Breguet’s “Équation Marchante” (or continuous equation), both time zones are displayed with their own set of hands at the very same dial. Adding an extra set of hour and minute hands may not sound like a refined method for showing such a romantic complication like Equation of Time however, it is pretty practical –if and when you get used to the dial layout of course.
“Designed differently from the Re-Issue and Heritage concepts, the new model houses many features, especially the "Equation of Time" complication that clearly marks the brand’s current position.”
There is a disk made of sapphire crystal at 5 o’clock. Under the disk, there is the heart shaped cam for the Equation of Time feature and the Tourbillon escapement – arguably the most popular invention of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Due to the bridge covering a part of the window reserved for Tourbillon, this spectacular view is partly blocked. Of course the features of Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 do not end here.
In addition to the Tourbillon and the Equation of Time function, a Perpetual Calendar feature is also shown on the dial. Day, month and leap year information can be read from the indicators placed between 10-11 and 1-2. The date function is represented by an additional retrograde style hand marked with an anchor motif on its end. Finally, the model’s power reserve indicator is located between the 7 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions of the dial.
Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is powered by the brand’s in-house Caliber Ref. 581DPE. Self-winding movement features Tourbillon, Equation of Time and Perpetual Calendar functions and offers 80 hours of power reserve when fully wound with a modern beat rate of 4Hz.
The movement bears magnificent decorative details as expected from Breguet. The bridges are decorated with motifs inspired by the Royal French Navy’s First Class vessel “Royal Louis”, while the barrel shows a spectacular engraving of a compass-rose. Thanks to the sapphire display caseback and its peripheral oscillating rotor, the movement can be enjoyed in full detail.
The model is offered on a brown alligator strap and a folding clasp in the shape of the letter "B", which is also made of 18K pink gold. Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887 is also available in a platinum case/blue dial version.