Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe is unveiling the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 at Watches & Wonders 2025, a platinum evolution of its most iconic dress watch. Paying homage to the original Ref. 96 from 1932, this release is reintroducing a classic aesthetic while incorporating modern refinements.

The 38mm platinum case is featuring a polished finish with satin-brushed flanks, a smooth, beveled bezel, and elegantly tapered lugs. The salmon-toned rose-gilt opaline dial is enhancing depth while maintaining a refined, understated look. Powering the watch, the manually wound Caliber 30-255 PS is offering twin barrels for a 65-hour power reserve, along with a stop-seconds mechanism for precise time-setting. Through the exhibition caseback, the movement is displaying Patek Philippe’s signature level of finishing.

One of the biggest critiques of the previous Ref. 5196 was its undersized movement, which led to an awkward sub-seconds placement. The 6196P is solving that issue, as its movement is perfectly proportioned within the 38mm case. The 30-255 PS is filling out the space beautifully with its 8.9mm diameter increase over the older Caliber 215 PS, ensuring a balanced and harmonious layout.

A platinum case is always a significant statement for Patek Philippe. Many collectors are considering platinum the ultimate material for the brand’s dress watches, as seen in the legendary Ref. 5970P, which consistently commands a premium over its gold counterparts. The 6196P-001 is following that tradition, offering a blend of heritage and modernity in a package that enthusiasts are eagerly welcoming.

While Patek Philippe is not chasing trends, it is demonstrating an impeccable sense of timing. The 6196P is bringing back the aesthetic of the original 96, filling a void that has been present for four years. This model is proving that timeless design never goes out of style, solidifying its place as a future classic.